Monrovia Madness and Christmas Preparations

Monrovia is alive. The drive into the city was pure chaos—honking horns, weaving traffic, and that magical kind of gridlock where a 10-minute drive somehow transforms into an hour-long odyssey. Honestly, it felt less like driving and more like surviving. But we made it!

The big win of the day? We secured our Cameroon visas—another stamp closer to the finish line. With that bit of paperwork out of the way, there was even time for some shopping. I treated myself to a bottle of one of my favorite whiskeys, safely tucked away for Christmas Day celebrations. Because if you can’t toast to surviving West African roads on Christmas, when can you?

I’m also starting to feel much more at ease here. The longer we travel, the more comfortable I get with chatting to locals, navigating markets, and eating at street-side food stalls. I’m even dabbling in local dishes when I can (though “vegetarian” remains a bit of a foreign concept outside the cities). Conversations often start with a smile, a proper handshake—which I’ve mastered now—and sometimes a few words of Krio or the local dialect. It’s usually just a “thank you” or something basic, but people always light up when you make the effort.

Speaking of heart-pounding experiences, I had my first go on a motorcycle taxi. For anyone feeling nostalgic about their most reckless teenage years, this is the way to relive it. Clinging to the back of a speeding bike, dodging potholes, pedestrians, and cars, all while questioning your life choices—it’s exhilarating and terrifying in equal measure. Highly recommend (but also, maybe don’t).

Tomorrow, we leave the urban chaos behind and head to Kpatawee Waterfall camp for Christmas —two nights to relax, celebrate, and hopefully enjoy some downtime before hitting the road again. I can’t wait to crack open that whiskey, share stories by the fire, and enjoy a bit of overland holiday magic.

Merry Overlanding Christmas—bring on the celebrations!

Chimpanzees, Packing, and a Smooth Border Crossing

Tiwai Island turned out to be an unexpected gem. Nestled in the middle of a river, it’s a chimpanzee sanctuary where the residents are safe because—fun fact—chimps can’t swim. It also doubles as an eco-resort, and we spent a night there soaking up the tranquility.

I’d braced myself for a rough transition back into tent life after four nights of hotel luxury, but surprisingly, I slept better than I have in awhile. Maybe I’m officially becoming feral? Or maybe the rhythm of overland life just agrees with me now. Either way, the air mattress and tent felt like home.

Another highlight? They cooked for us—three whole meals! No cook group shopping or playing Tetris with pots and pans. Just hot, ready-to-eat food. Bliss.

Packing for the trip to the island was also a small triumph. I managed to fit everything I needed—binoculars, sleeping bag, air mattress, clothes, wash bag, and even my tent—into my 35L backpack, affectionately named Coyote. It felt like a small win, but a good one.

A friend I made

We left the island with no real urgency, having a gloriously lazy 1 p.m. departure. From there, it was straight to the Liberia border. And what a breeze that crossing was! We didn’t even have to get off the truck. The crew handled everything while we lounged in our seats, which gave me time to reflect on how much work they save us. Many seasoned overlanders on this trip say that the biggest perk of an organized tour isn’t the group dynamic or the route planning—it’s skipping the bureaucratic nightmares of visas and border crossings. After today, I get it.

Once in Liberia, we found a quiet field off the road for another classic bush camp. No rivers or waterfalls this time, but it was peaceful and practical. The only hitch is the mobile data situation—it’s very spotty here. Normally, I’d just shrug it off, but I need to submit a customs form for my care package before Christmas. Fingers crossed I find a signal soon because explaining “holiday delays” from the middle of West Africa might be a stretch!

For now, though, it’s another night under the stars, with a full stomach, a now unpacked and messy bag, and the sound of distant road noises to send me to sleep. Overland life rolls on!

A Little luxury

One little luxury I brought with me is a USB personal handheld fan. I had thought I’d use it on the truck, but given we’re usually going 50kph with the sides open, the fan doesn’t really do much. It is useful when we are occasionally stuck in the truck, in traffic or at a border.

But it really came to shine in the tent. It’s hot and muggy, and I have rigged the little fan to hang from the ceiling and blow directly on me. It’s a little piece of luxury.

Looking up at the ceiling of the tent.