Calandula Falls and Nala problems

Sunday, 16 March 2025

We visited Calandula falls, some of the most spectacular waterfalls in Angola. With a height of 100m and a crescent shaped span of 400m during the regular season, and up to 580m during flooding, it’s quite the sight to behold, and hear.






We were very fortunate to be able to camp here too, and ended up having a relaxed midday arrival and 11am departure the next day. Sleeping within earshot of the falls was great.



Then we visited the Black Stones of Pungo Andongo, which were quite impressive. They looked like hill sized rocks that had just been thrust up from the ground.


My friend Set




Things have been going so well it was clearly time to have a problem, and Nala appeared to be happy to oblige. Today half way down a hill Paul noted with some concern that the accelerator no longer bounced back when he took his foot off. Indeed it lay flat on the floor (fortunately unlike in the movies this does not mean we accelerate uncontrollably, unfortunately it means we don’t accelerate). What had happened is the accelerator cable had snapped.

I’m no mechanic, but I’m pretty sure that pedal isn’t supposed to like flat on the floor.


Now I thought we’d be in a bit of trouble here, but this is not Paul’s first rodeo, and not his first broken accelerator cable. How do you fix this when you don’t have a replacement cable?


It’s hard to see on the small picture, but from the engine bay along the front and then up into the driver’s window is the washing line rope. You accelerate by pulling the rope! And this accelerator requires two hands to tug, it is not an easy thing.

Now imagine this, you’re driving along, using one hand on the wheel, two hands on the accelerator rope, and one hand on the gear stick. All in a days work for our superhero Paul.





Angola

Friday, 14 March 2025

 Little tricky to get good internet here. We’re doing a lot of bush camping. Today we’re heading to Calacanda Falls, the second largest falls in Africa.

Meanwhile, here’s a photo dump














Still going, Angola and DRC

Tuesday, 4 March 2025

 Still not doing much in the way of updates, but just letting everyone know that I may be even less reachable for the next 2 weeks as Angola and DRC have problematic internet (and/or very expensive).


Equator

Friday, 21 February 2025

 


Lack of updates!

Wednesday, 19 February 2025

 Sorry for the lack of updates. We spent a few days in Yaounde where I had my birthday, and a couple of days in Kribi on the beach. My birthday was an absolute blast, I rented a penthouse apartment in Yaounde, and we threw a party.


We are currently on the road to the Congo, we are skipping Gabon because of the fighting going on and the borders being closed.


I’ll keep posting to this blog sometimes, but right now I’m just not inspired — rest assured everything is ok.


Am still alive

Monday, 10 February 2025

 It’s been a few days since my last update. I’m still alive, but just a bit sick. We are now in Cameroon. Paul says “these are the worst roads I’ve driven on in Africa”. It’s very slow going, we are already a day behind schedule.



Drill Ranch

Sunday, 2 February 2025

 Drill Monkeys are endangered and we had the opportunity to stay 2 nights and see how they’re rehabilitating them to release into the wild.

They also have some two dozen chimpanzees in a special very large enclosure.














Wear and tear

Tuesday, 28 January 2025

Four months in and things are starting to show signs of wear. My tent has a damaged zipper on one side, so I’m no longer opening that door — fortunately it has two doors. My (non smart) watch has a crack along it — not surprised it gets a lot of abuse. My phone would be quite damaged except that it’s on its second case that takes the brunt of the abuse, and it is almost time for a 3rd.  even I’m taking some wear, i had a couple of days that I wasn’t bright and happy, but I think that’s over. 


That said some things are holding up well. My air mattress is still fine, my sandals are great (my feet not so much, but they’re getting tougher). While my clothes are getting more and more brown even after washing (though not that bad when I get to a real washing machine), they are still holding up well.


All in all, aside from the tent zip, I’m pretty happy with how things are going.

Into Nigeria

Saturday, 25 January 2025

 The last few days have been such a blur I barely remember what I did or when. 

We were just staying in what was kind of a voodoo arts gallery/residence/campground complete with life size elephant wood carvings, live real crocodiles, and a weird selection of wooden crafts, all with us camped amongst it all.

You know, usual West Africa stuff.

Today we are heading to the Nigerian border, hopefully to cross into Nigeria, with at least 3 upcoming bush camps in a row. Were staying in Nigeria for 2 whole weeks.


Belated updates

 It’s been a while since my last update, and in overland time, that means a lot has happened. The biggest event? A week-long break in Accra, where I swapped bush camps for five glorious nights in a real hotel. A real hotel. With a bed! And a shower that didn’t require a bucket. It was heaven.


Liz and Paul, as always, worked tirelessly fixing the truck and sorting visas for the next leg of our journey while the rest of us indulged in creature comforts. I even managed to pick up some quality whisky for the road—because if you’re going to drink to survive West African travel, you might as well do it properly.


But, as all good things do, the break came to an end, and we were back on Nala, with some big changes. We gained five new people and lost a few, bringing our numbers up to 23 people on a 24-seater truck. That makes things a little more cozy, and those who like to stretch out are finding it themselves with few options.


Togo: Beachside Bliss


Our first stop post-Accra was Togo, where we spent three nights near Lomé at a beautiful beachside campground. The facilities were basic but functional, which is about as much as you can hope for when you’re on the road again. The beach here was gorgeous, watching the sunset over the ocean, feel the sand between your toes, and almost forget about the dust-covered chaos of overlanding.


Benin: Sleeping on the Beach


From Togo, we pushed into Benin, stopping at a much smaller beach campground for one night. This time, I decided to pitch my tent right on the beach—falling asleep to the roar of the ocean, waves crashing just meters away. It was loud, powerful, and oddly peaceful.


On the Road Again


And now, we’re back on the move. The wheels never stop turning, the borders keep coming, and the adventure rolls on. We’ve swapped the comforts of Accra for the raw, unpredictable beauty of the open road again.















Accra rest days

Sunday, 12 January 2025

 We made it to Accra and have been resting for a few days (the crew in theory are resting, in reality they’re working hard behind the scenes getting everything ready for the next leg).

I’m staying in the city while the truck and some people are out at the official location — Big Milly’s. There’s probably half of us in the city, half at Big Milly’s. 

I got my care package! Bunch of nice to have stuff, additional usb fan, some cables, another usb car charger, etc. 

No real updates other than above.

Visas tomorrow and next day, then we hit the road again. Wheel doesn’t stop turning for long.

Hippos, Elephants, and Safari Magic

Tuesday, 7 January 2025



How do I even begin to capture the last few days? It’s been a whirlwind of wildlife, adventure, and pure magic. After leaving our peaceful bush camp, we made our way to a hippo reserve—and what a start to the day that was!




We were loaded into very questionable wooden canoes—the kind that sit low in the water, leak just enough to you need to constantly bail, and immediately remind you that hippos kill more people than lions. Just to add a little international flavor, the river crossing actually took us into Burkina Faso(technically another country ticked off the list!).


Up the river, we spotted the hippos—big, lazy, and mostly submerged, but with the occasional burst of activity as the younger ones played around. My binoculars absolutely earned their spot in my bag for this one, letting me see the details even from a distance.


Fun fact: Hippos can’t swim. Instead, they run along the riverbed, holding their breath and jumping off the bottom to the surface. Kind of like an overweight deadly ballerina.


But the real magic began later that day when Paul somehow pulled off an extremely long and difficult day of driving and got us to Mole National Park—giving us two nights in what turned out to be safari heaven.



The campgrounds were almost luxurious by overland standards—flat grass, functioning showers, and toilets that worked. No ants, no dust storms, and no random midnight encounters with oversized insects. Just peace, simplicity, and excitement about what lay ahead. Though there were the baboons waiting for us to go out…




The next morning, it was safari time. I found myself in a wonderfully old-school Range Rover, complete with eight seats mounted on top. It felt like something out of a 1970s nature documentary, and I was here for it.





At first, it met my low expectations. A few antelopes here, some birds there, a warthog or two. But then—elephants.





Not just elephants off in the distance—we’re talking  20 meters away, close enough to hear them breathe and watch their ears flap in slow motion. At one point, we even had to back away slowly because one decided we were a little too interesting and got within 10 meters! I’ve been told it’s incredibly rare to get this close to elephants on foot in the wild, and now I understand why. It was exhilarating, humbling, and completely unforgettable.





Words might fail to fully capture the safari experience, I can safely say it was magical.





The day was already perfect, but we couldn’t stop there. Our group, now bonded by shared awe, immediately agreed to book a night safari with the same guide. 


But before that things took an interesting turn during the day. With us all gone the baboons came and investigated our campsite. We had a dozen of them running around running amuck. I found it amusing until one snuck into my tent and nicked off with my laundry bag! Hilarity ensued as I, shirtless, bolted off into the forest after it, swearing up a storm. (See previous post for photos)


From hippos to elephants, the past few days have been the kind of adventure you dream about when you sign up for something as wild as overlanding. And the best part? We’re still just getting started.