Wear and tear

Tuesday, 28 January 2025

Four months in and things are starting to show signs of wear. My tent has a damaged zipper on one side, so I’m no longer opening that door — fortunately it has two doors. My (non smart) watch has a crack along it — not surprised it gets a lot of abuse. My phone would be quite damaged except that it’s on its second case that takes the brunt of the abuse, and it is almost time for a 3rd.  even I’m taking some wear, i had a couple of days that I wasn’t bright and happy, but I think that’s over. 


That said some things are holding up well. My air mattress is still fine, my sandals are great (my feet not so much, but they’re getting tougher). While my clothes are getting more and more brown even after washing (though not that bad when I get to a real washing machine), they are still holding up well.


All in all, aside from the tent zip, I’m pretty happy with how things are going.

Into Nigeria

Saturday, 25 January 2025

 The last few days have been such a blur I barely remember what I did or when. 

We were just staying in what was kind of a voodoo arts gallery/residence/campground complete with life size elephant wood carvings, live real crocodiles, and a weird selection of wooden crafts, all with us camped amongst it all.

You know, usual West Africa stuff.

Today we are heading to the Nigerian border, hopefully to cross into Nigeria, with at least 3 upcoming bush camps in a row. Were staying in Nigeria for 2 whole weeks.


Belated updates

 It’s been a while since my last update, and in overland time, that means a lot has happened. The biggest event? A week-long break in Accra, where I swapped bush camps for five glorious nights in a real hotel. A real hotel. With a bed! And a shower that didn’t require a bucket. It was heaven.


Liz and Paul, as always, worked tirelessly fixing the truck and sorting visas for the next leg of our journey while the rest of us indulged in creature comforts. I even managed to pick up some quality whisky for the road—because if you’re going to drink to survive West African travel, you might as well do it properly.


But, as all good things do, the break came to an end, and we were back on Nala, with some big changes. We gained five new people and lost a few, bringing our numbers up to 23 people on a 24-seater truck. That makes things a little more cozy, and those who like to stretch out are finding it themselves with few options.


Togo: Beachside Bliss


Our first stop post-Accra was Togo, where we spent three nights near Lomé at a beautiful beachside campground. The facilities were basic but functional, which is about as much as you can hope for when you’re on the road again. The beach here was gorgeous, watching the sunset over the ocean, feel the sand between your toes, and almost forget about the dust-covered chaos of overlanding.


Benin: Sleeping on the Beach


From Togo, we pushed into Benin, stopping at a much smaller beach campground for one night. This time, I decided to pitch my tent right on the beach—falling asleep to the roar of the ocean, waves crashing just meters away. It was loud, powerful, and oddly peaceful.


On the Road Again


And now, we’re back on the move. The wheels never stop turning, the borders keep coming, and the adventure rolls on. We’ve swapped the comforts of Accra for the raw, unpredictable beauty of the open road again.















Accra rest days

Sunday, 12 January 2025

 We made it to Accra and have been resting for a few days (the crew in theory are resting, in reality they’re working hard behind the scenes getting everything ready for the next leg).

I’m staying in the city while the truck and some people are out at the official location — Big Milly’s. There’s probably half of us in the city, half at Big Milly’s. 

I got my care package! Bunch of nice to have stuff, additional usb fan, some cables, another usb car charger, etc. 

No real updates other than above.

Visas tomorrow and next day, then we hit the road again. Wheel doesn’t stop turning for long.

Hippos, Elephants, and Safari Magic

Tuesday, 7 January 2025



How do I even begin to capture the last few days? It’s been a whirlwind of wildlife, adventure, and pure magic. After leaving our peaceful bush camp, we made our way to a hippo reserve—and what a start to the day that was!




We were loaded into very questionable wooden canoes—the kind that sit low in the water, leak just enough to you need to constantly bail, and immediately remind you that hippos kill more people than lions. Just to add a little international flavor, the river crossing actually took us into Burkina Faso(technically another country ticked off the list!).


Up the river, we spotted the hippos—big, lazy, and mostly submerged, but with the occasional burst of activity as the younger ones played around. My binoculars absolutely earned their spot in my bag for this one, letting me see the details even from a distance.


Fun fact: Hippos can’t swim. Instead, they run along the riverbed, holding their breath and jumping off the bottom to the surface. Kind of like an overweight deadly ballerina.


But the real magic began later that day when Paul somehow pulled off an extremely long and difficult day of driving and got us to Mole National Park—giving us two nights in what turned out to be safari heaven.



The campgrounds were almost luxurious by overland standards—flat grass, functioning showers, and toilets that worked. No ants, no dust storms, and no random midnight encounters with oversized insects. Just peace, simplicity, and excitement about what lay ahead. Though there were the baboons waiting for us to go out…




The next morning, it was safari time. I found myself in a wonderfully old-school Range Rover, complete with eight seats mounted on top. It felt like something out of a 1970s nature documentary, and I was here for it.





At first, it met my low expectations. A few antelopes here, some birds there, a warthog or two. But then—elephants.





Not just elephants off in the distance—we’re talking  20 meters away, close enough to hear them breathe and watch their ears flap in slow motion. At one point, we even had to back away slowly because one decided we were a little too interesting and got within 10 meters! I’ve been told it’s incredibly rare to get this close to elephants on foot in the wild, and now I understand why. It was exhilarating, humbling, and completely unforgettable.





Words might fail to fully capture the safari experience, I can safely say it was magical.





The day was already perfect, but we couldn’t stop there. Our group, now bonded by shared awe, immediately agreed to book a night safari with the same guide. 


But before that things took an interesting turn during the day. With us all gone the baboons came and investigated our campsite. We had a dozen of them running around running amuck. I found it amusing until one snuck into my tent and nicked off with my laundry bag! Hilarity ensued as I, shirtless, bolted off into the forest after it, swearing up a storm. (See previous post for photos)


From hippos to elephants, the past few days have been the kind of adventure you dream about when you sign up for something as wild as overlanding. And the best part? We’re still just getting started.

Stolen!

Saturday, 4 January 2025

So that wasn’t what I expected to happen today. 

Tick Run through the campsite, then forest shirtless chasing after a baboon that’s stolen my laundry bag off my bucket list.



















Border Delays and a Bush Camp Win

Thursday, 2 January 2025

 Our streak of smooth border crossings finally came to an end yesterday. After weeks of defying expectations and cruising through immigration checkpoints, Ghana decided to remind us that overlanding isn’t always about luck—it’s primarily about patience.


The culprit? A visa date mix-up. One of our group’s visas had an expiry date of December 31, and, of course, we rolled up to the border on January 1. The officials were sympathetic but firm—rules are rules, even when the error is clearly a technicality.


Cue hours of negotiations, plans, and waiting. The officials tried to issue an emergency visa, but the station chief—the only one with the authority to approve it—was MIA, apparently due to “festivities” which sounds suspiciously like nursing a New Year’s hangover. It took several hours to track him down, retrieve the key, and finally get the visa issued.


By the time we hit the road again, it was 6 p.m., and night was closing in fast. Paul, ever the wizard, pulled off another miracle camp find—a quiet field tucked away from the road. As far as last-minute bush camps go, it was a solid win.


We raced the fading light to get our tents up, and dinner was whipped together quickly. With nothing left to do but relax under the stars, I took full advantage of the early night. I must have passed out as soon as my head hit the pillow because I woke up feeling refreshed and ready to tackle the next stretch of the journey.


Honestly, there’s just something about bush camps that I love. They feel real. The simplicity, the quiet, and the sense of being completely off the grid—it’s unbeatable.


Now we’re officially in Ghana, ready for new adventures and hopefully no more visa surprises. But if we do run into more hiccups, I’ll take another night in a peaceful field any day!

Shopping Sprees, Modern Malls, and New Year’s Cheers

Wednesday, 1 January 2025

 Happy New Year from the back of Nala! I know, I know—nearly a week since my last update. How tardyof me! But what a week it’s been. After Christmas at Kpatawee Falls and a surprisingly smooth border crossing into Côte d’Ivoire, we made such good time that we earned ourselves four whole nights at a lovely campground near Abidjan. Four nights! That’s practically a holiday within the holiday.



Abidjan turned out to be a modern, bustling city, and a few of us decided to head in for a “bus” adventure. Now, when I say bus, let’s be clear: it was more of a van bursting at the seams with people. But it got us there, and with the windows open (or missing), we even had “air conditioning” courtesy of the breeze.


Our first destination? Decathlon—a popular retailer of outdoor gear and clothes in Africa. But on the way, we stumbled across Orca, which is best described as Africa’s answer to Walmart. Naturally, shopping happened. I picked up a few things Nala was missing because even a truck needs a little TLC now and then.



Yes, they even sell a Candy Floss (Cotton Candy) machine. The actual machine. Unfortunately we couldn’t get it



Decathlon didn’t disappoint either, though the highlight of the day had to be the mall next door. Imagine stepping out of the dusty roads of West Africa and into a high-end Western mall complete with a Burger King, a Bose store, and everything else you’d expect back home. It was so shiny and polished I almost forgot where we were.


The cherry on top? Going to the movies. And since we’re in Africa, what better movie to watch than The Lion King—in French. It was oddly fitting, even if my French comprehension is limited to picking out dramatic moments based purely on the soundtrack.




The rest of our days in Abidjan were slower-paced—more shopping for Nala, reorganizing gear, and generally resting up before the New Year.


New Year’s Eve was a proper celebration. We went out to a restaurant, ate far too much, and some of us even made it to midnight to toast goodbye to 2024 and welcome in 2025. Others (raises hand) celebrated a bit too hard and woke up the next morning with a hangover the size of West Africa.


And now, here we are—New Year’s Day, back on the road, nursing headaches and sipping water as we aim for the Ghana border. The goal is to cross today and keep pushing forward to Accra, the one quarter marker of the entire trip.


New year, new country, new adventures—and hopefully, no new hangovers anytime soon!


New Year, New Haircut, New Clothes, Same old me.