Tiwai Island turned out to be an unexpected gem. Nestled in the middle of a river, it’s a chimpanzee sanctuary where the residents are safe because—fun fact—chimps can’t swim. It also doubles as an eco-resort, and we spent a night there soaking up the tranquility.
I’d braced myself for a rough transition back into tent life after four nights of hotel luxury, but surprisingly, I slept better than I have in awhile. Maybe I’m officially becoming feral? Or maybe the rhythm of overland life just agrees with me now. Either way, the air mattress and tent felt like home.
Another highlight? They cooked for us—three whole meals! No cook group shopping or playing Tetris with pots and pans. Just hot, ready-to-eat food. Bliss.
Packing for the trip to the island was also a small triumph. I managed to fit everything I needed—binoculars, sleeping bag, air mattress, clothes, wash bag, and even my tent—into my 35L backpack, affectionately named Coyote. It felt like a small win, but a good one.
We left the island with no real urgency, having a gloriously lazy 1 p.m. departure. From there, it was straight to the Liberia border. And what a breeze that crossing was! We didn’t even have to get off the truck. The crew handled everything while we lounged in our seats, which gave me time to reflect on how much work they save us. Many seasoned overlanders on this trip say that the biggest perk of an organized tour isn’t the group dynamic or the route planning—it’s skipping the bureaucratic nightmares of visas and border crossings. After today, I get it.
Once in Liberia, we found a quiet field off the road for another classic bush camp. No rivers or waterfalls this time, but it was peaceful and practical. The only hitch is the mobile data situation—it’s very spotty here. Normally, I’d just shrug it off, but I need to submit a customs form for my care package before Christmas. Fingers crossed I find a signal soon because explaining “holiday delays” from the middle of West Africa might be a stretch!
For now, though, it’s another night under the stars, with a full stomach, a now unpacked and messy bag, and the sound of distant road noises to send me to sleep. Overland life rolls on!
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