Christmas at Kpatawee Waterfalls was beautiful. The camp itself felt like a slice of paradise, nestled in lush greenery with beautiful falls perfect for lazing around. Apparently, it’s a bit of a festival hotspot, though we mostly had it to ourselves, aside from the small party that wrapped up early.
Christmas Eve was gloriously lazy. Lounging around, enjoying the scenery, and—let’s be honest—sampling the ridiculously cheap alcohol. A 1L bottle of local beer for $2.50? Yes, please. And the 60ml bottles of coffee rum liqueur for the equivalent of $0.60 were both dangerous and delicious. Potent doesn’t even begin to describe them.
Christmas Day was a feast to remember. Paul worked previously unknown culinary magic, grilling vegetables and various meats over a charcoal fire. The crew outdid themselves with a breakfast and lunch spread so good that dinner was unnecessary. We even decorated Nala, with tinsel and Santa hats, and with my tent lights doubling as festive ornaments. She looked fabulous—probably her most glamorous moment yet.
The presence of 20+ local and federal police added an unexpected touch of security theater to the day. Apparently, they were preparing for a big festival crowd that never quite materialized. By 8 p.m., the “festival” had fizzled out, leaving us to carry on with our own celebrations well into the night. The drinks flowed, the stories got funnier, and we toasted to a great Christmas.
Boxing Day brought us back to reality—or at least the overlanding version of it. We packed up camp and hit the road for Côte d’Ivoire (CDI), bracing ourselves for a potentially rocky border crossing. We’d heard horror stories, including one Oasis truck that had to camp for five days in no man’s land after CDI decided to throw a bureaucratic tantrum.
But—miracle of miracles—our crossing was smooth as butter. Start to finish, it took just 1 hour and 20 minutes, which might be a record for this trip. Spirits were high as we rolled into CDI, making the most of the remaining daylight to push further down the road and cut tomorrow’s drive time.
The holiday vibes are still lingering, but it’s time to refocus on the journey ahead. New country, new stories waiting just around the corner. Cheers to surviving Christmas in the jungle—and to not spending Boxing Day trapped in no man’s land!
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