Syangboche Aiport

Tuesday, 12 September 2017


Location; Phinjo Lodge and Restaurant, Syangboche Aiport, 3740m


"Snickers Really Satisfies"
- Ann

We have all started munching down on Mars or Snickers bars for that burst of energy. They're very prevalent here, easy to pickup at Walmart 

We started the day at a relaxing 8am breakfast, with a set off at 9am.

We quickly had a different view of Nameche that was better than we'd had before


We ascended more stairs (MORE STAIRS) up and up. I've been told that it's a cultural/religious thing, they build stairways to their Gods, some don't even go anyway.

Fortunately these went up to Syangboche Airport, which holds the record as the highest airport in the world. It's currently used as a tourist destination to a hotel nearby with views of Everest - today was very cloudy so we didn't get any. 

Walking up to Shangboche and the lodge there was difficult, but not nearly as hard as yesterday. The stairs are the killer - in some cases there were rocks alongside the stairs that ascended at the same rate as the stairs, and taking that path was so much easier for me. Whilst it wasn't no problem it was much easier. I think the difficulty is in the lifting the legs up, and the uneveness of it. Some steps are far apart, some are close but higher, it's hard to get a rhythm going.






At the restaurant I had hot chocolate with coffee drink. I guess it's a mochachino.

Returning down we did without problem back to the tea house.

I did some shopping to pickup some more snickers bars. They really do seem to be a staple of the trekkers diet. Carbs/Protien in the morning, Snickers at morning tea, carbs for lunch, Snickers and Snickers again until you reach your destination.

Food and drink is interesting. I'm having to force myself to eat, it's not that I don't feel like eating, I just don't feel hungry. I'm also having to remember to drink enough water.

It's easy enough to get water if you're happy to use bottled water - which I'm not. The trash problem is apparently getting a bit epic, and plastic doesn't biodegrade. So I use iodine tablets and local water. That means drinking water takes effort as you have to drink it, fill it, then purify it.

Anyway, time to go drink some water, and maybe have a nap. It's a few hours till dinner.





Nameche - OMG, soooo tired.

Monday, 11 September 2017

I don't even know where to begin....

Ok, stats
The day started in Phakding at 0645h, for a 0700h breakfast and 0800 departure. We knew this one was going to be a long one, but I don't think anyone fully comprehend how much, how high, and how steep.

The local pray flags use different coloured flags to represent different things, earth, fire, sky. They use a white flag for water, which initially seemed odd... till you saw this river.





The rapids make it turn white, into what they call the milky river.

It was amazingly beautiful scenery, and so much that the camera just couldn't capture, that third dimension of depth is missing from a photo. 













There were quite a few bridges we needed to cross, to be honest I'd rather have stopped on them for a few to take some photos looking up and down river, but you don't want to block others, or even worse, have an ox appear and want to cross. At that point, no matter how far across the bridge is, you turn around and walk the other way. They have the right of way by sheer fact that they'll just knock you off otherwise.


I can't explain how tall these bridges are. We went across the top one.





What I didn't count on, and what slowed me down the most was the stairs... there were sooooo many stairs, and I soon discovered they were my nemesis, I could keep a good pace going, even up hill, up rock, so long as there were no steps. As soon as I had to walk up stairs carved into the rock, my cadence was off, I had to lift the leg up high each time.







So. Many. Steps.

They became the killer of me, I started dropping back from the group and after awhile was no longer making the rest stops before the group moved on. Of course our leader who was tail end stuck with me. 

I was really  grateful and pleased when a few people hung back at one point and stayed with me for a bit, and Stephan ended up staying with me the whole way at the end. I was a bit late, but I did it.

I did it, I reached Nameche.

Tomorrow is a rest day.

That sounds like a good idea. I think I'll do that.

Phakding- 2600m

Sunday, 10 September 2017

Ok, first day of trekking completed! Whooo!

Really getting to know the people on the trek, our lead guide Prem, our secondary guides Manee and Dawa. 


Our porters, 6 of them, I've yet to properly learn their names (I have rough approximations) and definitely not learned how to spell them! They disappear on ahead, so we don't get much of a chance to talk to them.



In our merry group of travels, aside from the guides and porters, there are 12 of us:
  • Jonathon, who's been my bunky for last night and tonight,
  • Amanda and her partner Adam,
  • Taylor,
  • Adam,
  • Holly,
  • Liam,
  • Ann,
  • Amanda (another one)
  • Stephan,
  • and finally Andrew.
Just thinking about it... there are a lot of names starting with "A". I'm sure there's something significant about that.

We have better group shots, but of course they are on others cellphones. We all intend to share the photos when we get back to real wifi places.







They are all really interesting people and I've started learning about them.

The trek started from Lukla (see previous post on the amazing landing), at 2800m. We had a big breakfast and set off on our 3 hour trek to Phakding (it was sort of 6, given stops for lunch, shopping, and a few breaks. 










Towards the end of the hike for today there were a tall series of steps, and they were really the killer for me. I had no problems with the slopes upward, but stairs seem to be very annoying. I got out the walking poles and set them for stair climbing, that made a significant difference.

We arrive in Phakding around 3:30pm, and took our rest. I chose to do some warm down stretching, then redo my kit bags, moving stuff from one to the other. They were mostly good, but I missed a few things I'd have preferred to be carrying.

Dinner was good, there's still western food on the menu, but it's getting less. I went with Vege MoMos, which were like Dumplings. Despite having done some decent exercise, I wasn't hungry - though water is a problem, I'm not drinking enough - that is something I must change. 

I'm using the iodine tablets which I was told had a bag taste, but it seems reasonable - more like water that "tastes funny". 

I managed to pickup a patch in one of the villages as we went through and after dinner I did some sewing (yup, I brought a needle and thread).



Sleep time now!

OMG ITS HAPPENING!

This morning was a nice wake up at 0425, at the lobby by 0445h. The atmosphere was one of anticipation / muted excitement. We knew it was happening today, but it hadn't really set in. The ride to the airport as bumpy as I've come to expect, though even at 0500 some traffic was starting to form.

The airport was almost exactly like every other airport (see my previous musing on the drawing flow of airports). Initially the flight was delayed as it was cloud, but it was only 15 minutes before we were being rushed to the plane. Literally, run to the plane. They are really serious about getting us up in the air as fast as possible. This is because the weather in Lukla can change very quickly, and it had been effectively closed the past few days due to cloud. 




Once we got into the air, it started to get real, as the flight went on we all became more and more exicited, lots of photos were taken. The anticipation was really strong.


In the red, our lead guide, Prem

The mountains were above us, but we were only a few hundred feet off the ground, nowhere near the runway.

The landing was amazing! You have now idea, I've seen the videos, I've read the stories, but my God, it's amazing. You think you're approaching steep nose down... you're not, the runway races up to meet you at about the same angel as you meet it. The runway slopes up, and there is a big brick wall at the end of the ludicrously short runway. There's a reason they call it the most dangerous airport in the world!

For the pilots it is of course a daily job, but for everyone else, it was fantastic!



We were all giddy with excitement when we got to our briefing. There was nothing muted about any of the emotions!

Kathmandu - Met the group

Saturday, 9 September 2017

Well, we are a merry bunch of 12 of us. Seems like an interesting crowd, though predominantly Aussies. What is it about Australians?

On the fitness scale, I think I rank near the bottom, but the spread is wide, so it's no so bad as being part of some super fitness group 😁.

A couple of people have trekked a bit before, but most seem to have not done much. One woman has been trekking around India, so probably has the most experience of all of us. The Texan, Taylor, asked about whether we could get a steak up there. Ten out of ten for being a stereotype, minus a million for not doing research before hand.

The British man, Liam, was particularly interested in the specific type of plane we'd be flying in... 

Adam is an Aussie who has the delightful anticipation of whether his luggage will arrive tonight... it didn't arrive on the plane with him this morning... ouch. Fortunately he will be able to buy some stuff in Lukla, and then a day later will be able to buy essentially everything in Nameche Bazaar.

We have an 0445h start tomorrow (that's meet at 0445h, not wake up), off to the airport to catch a flight to Lukla.

The trip begins!

Kathmandu - sort of rest day

Friday, 8 September 2017

Today's a rest day. Well, not really, it's just that I don't have much I need to do, I've brought the last minute supplies.

I have however shaved, picked up a razor for 70Rp, and some soap for 100Rp ($0.70 and $1.00). I'll be leaving those behind, the razor is already done, my beard isn't easy.



I've repacked and removed stuff I don't need. I'm tempted to go out this afternoon and see if I can rent a lighter sleeping bag. I don't know how much this one I rented weighs, but it's not light. I'm bordering on my weight limits.

I'm at 8kg for my duffle, and 4kg for my day pack. The day pack weight includes walking poles, which I either use, or when not using go into the duffle (400g). On the advice of a guide, I'm leaving my warmest jacket behind. I sort of figured I didn't need it, I certainly have the layers.

In the end I'm sure I'll have packed too much stuff, but my medications take up half a kilogram (packed twice as much, spread between two packs), so that's something. 

I have an almost obsession with finding the hidden weights.

Tomorrow afternoon I meet the group, and Sunday we fly out.


Chandragiri Hill and back again

Thursday, 7 September 2017

Well, what a day!

I am still getting the local tipping amounts sorted, still not sure how much I should be tipping. I'm either vastly over tipping or significantly undertipping, both are equally insulting. I'll get it worked out soon.

Dilip
At 8:30am I met my guide for the day, Dilip Kumar Shrestharanjit, or Dilip as he likes to be called. 

As we drive out of Thamel and head to the gondola, Dilip tells me about the rebuilding and cleanup of Kathmandu. The locals are sick of the dust, the smell, and the rubbish, and want the cleanup. The river, he points out as we drive over is (in his words) disgusting!

I ask "if the place is cleaned up, won't that make it expensive for the locals?", he acknowledges the point but points out it will bring more tourists, which means more money. He himself works in the tourism industry, and has no other qualifications, so that's the only way he gets money. Dilip explains the economics of it are complicated, but rebuilding and cleaning the city is the best way forward. 

He is a well travelled man, not only all over Nepal and India, but worked as a waiter at the Burj Khalifa when it opened, but left after they failed to give him the pay rises he was promised, because of his good English he was told he would receive pay rises.


Traffic in Kathmandu is similar to other large cities in developing nations. It is best described as Mostly Flowing Chaos. The road rules are simple:
  • Force your way through.
  • Don't hit someone (car or pedestrian).
  • Don't get hit.
It works surprisingly well, there are few fender-benders, as evidenced by the cars you see. Even old ones are pretty much fine. The chaos works, either that or the panelbeaters are very very good.

Walking through the streets requires a different skill set than you are probably used to. Off the main roads there are no footpaths to speak of, so you walk on the road. It is not nearly as simple as walk on the side, on the left or the right. The streets are full of rickshaws, stopped cars, deliveries, motorbikes and most significantly; pedestrians.

This means cars are required to force their way through (see above), and so occupy any particular part of the road that they can. As a pedestrian it's your job to be aware of the cars and other obsticals, to force your way through, but also avoid being hit yourself. You are essentially a vehicle, following the road rules listed earlier - you just have a lot more to lose if you get hit.

I suppose it could take a bit of getting used to, but I'm stroppy enough that I just demand my right of way and so far I've avoided being a ding on a car bumper.



About 45 minutes after we set off, we arrived at the gondola ground station for Chandragiri Hill. The ride up was both beautiful and expected. It may seem jaded, I am sure a travel journalist could make riding up the forest covered hills through the clouds sound lovely and breathtaking, but I guess I'm spoiled by New Zealand.

On the ride up I asked Dilip some more questions. I carefully asked him whether there was much corruption in Nepal, and he felt comfortable enough to confirm there is. He says it's not nearly as bad as it used to be, the public have become wise, and with the power of striking, demanding what they want.

I asked him about the EBC trek and what is it that some tourists do that makes you go "wow they are stupid"? He says that some tourists want to come to Everest, to visit Base Camp, but don't understand that it's walking all day, every day. That you don't just drive up, and it's not just short walks every day.

This doesn't exactly bode well for me. Whilst I full well know it's a tough journey, not something done lightly, but am I fit enough? I hope that when I set out, I see lots of out-of-shape tourists coming back, this would hopefully mean my "fitness" isn't so near the bottom to be the sort of person Dilip is talking about.

Side note: as I'm writing this entry back at KGH, it's raining at the moment, it's that lovely cool rain you get when it's been a hot day.

Dilip tells me of his family, he has 8 children, the oldest just 15! Though he hints that they may not all be to the same wife.

Obligatory panorama shot

The top of Chandragiri Hill is as i would expect. A tourist stop. It's views, when we aren't inside a cloud, I imagine are spectacular, but the top is definitely for tourists. Restaurants that serve hamburgers and milkshakes (no, I didn't have either). Dilip did introduce me to pakki chai, or "milk tea". It is a delicious drink, very sweet. Milk teas are made differently all over the world, so you will have to come to Nepal to try what I had.


My main purpose of this trip today isn't visiting the top, it's what is next - the walk down. Rather than use the gondola, we are going to walk down the hill. A side note for some who aren't aware; whilst walking down hill is obviously easier than up, it is not as easy as walking on the flat, your thighs get a good workout.


My primary purpose of the day is to find out what works and what doesn't for the trek. To establish if I need to change anything, remember anything, or more importantly, buy anything before I begin the big one.


It would have been lovely if most of the trip was through rain forests, but it was mostly dirt roads. I'm not too sad, as I said, this is a walking exercise for me.

The roads are still muddy from the rains, and I confess I did slip over - but only once. 

We had lunch at a local place that Dilip says is used by the locals going up and down the hill. They stop here and grab a bite. I tried and enjoyed a type of Nepalese curry, I don't remember the name unfortunately.


Here I tried not eating as much as I could, seeing how having a light lunch would impact me (hint, it did, but not that bad). After heading off again, by about the 1h30m mark I was starting to feel it in my thighs. Fortunately we had just arrived at our rendezvous point with the car. I said to Dilip that if we had another 2 hours of walking, I'd be rather happy to have a quick rest now, but both fortunately and sadly we had reached the car. Fortunately because it meant I wasn't tired, but sadly because I didn't get to the point of tired. It would have been nice to find my limit. Never fear, I am absolutely confident that I will find many many limits on the trek to EBC.



On the walk down we talked about many things, and Dilip gave me some good advice on the trek. Sadly my very thick down jacket/pillow won't be needed, it's not cold enough at the moment (it's served me well throughout the coldest parts of Europe, and when stuffed inside itself, makes a fantastic pillow).

So using his advice, tonight I have trimmed down my pack, removing stuff that I brought, but wasn't sure if I'd need.

Dilip told me of the tourist qualifications they are required to have, and the courses they have to go on. Price wise they are expensive, but not out-of-reach, and you earn it back very quickly once you become a guide.

I was impressed to hear of all the things the courses cover. A lot of detail on working with clients, understanding different cultures and how they tend to react. Conversations to avoid (politics, do not talk politics), and even how to move the conversations away from those contentious topics.

They cover not only AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness), and go into extensive detail on recognising it and how to deal with it, but also lightly cover other illnesses that tourists may experience, such as diabetes and ashma. 

We finally reached the bottom around 1hr 30mins from when we set off, and after another tea, we headed back for an hour long drive through traffic to get back into town.

  • Distance walked; 22,000 steps, approx 16km.
  • Maximum altitude: approx 2600m
  • Altitude change walked: 1000m
  • Battery level at end of day: 65%